Pre-pandemic I knew I mostly paid with credit or debit cards, less and less with cash. And I’m not the only one: cash transactions in the US have decreased from 31% in 2016 to 21% in 2021. Now, three years since the pandemic hit, I am almost totally cashless.
My wife and I traveled to Japan in November 2022 and were gobsmacked to discover that cash is still king (somewhat). Our plan to take the subway from Tokyo Haneda to Shinagawa Station hit a speed bump when we discovered that credit cards were not accepted, only cash or pre-paid card. This was not unique: in Kyoto, approximately half of the taxi cabs are cash-only. Definitely a shock: I’m not used to handing over cash to a cabbie in these days of Uber and Lyft.
Pre-Paid Smart Cards
Though Japan may not have embraced digital currency, they have mastered Smart Cards.
What is a smart card? It’s electronic currency “stored” in a pre-paid, rechargeable, contactless card. Suica (Super Urban Intelligent CArd) was initially released in 2001 for travel on JREast trains; many others exist, often tied to the regional transit system.
The best part about Japan’s Smart Cards? Most integrate/interoperate with one another (to some degree) and almost all integrate with Suica. No turf wars between cards means you carry one and not dozens (unlike streaming)! Very customer-centric, very convenient, very simple.
Since the initial goal to simplify travel, smart cards have extended far beyond your simple Oyster or Omny cards
Where Can I Use My Suica?
tl;dr: more places than you imagined!
Tokyo-Area Transportation
- JREast Lines within Tokyo: e.g., Keihin–Tōhoku, Tōkaidō, Yamanote, lines;
- JREast Lines outside of Tokyo: e.g. Narita Express and Tokaido Main Line;
- Tokyo Metro Subways: e.g., Ginza Line, Marunouchi Line, Chiyoda Line;
- Tokyo Buses;
- Tokyo Monorail;
- Private Railways: e.g., Keisei Electric Railway, Keikyu Corporation, Tobu Railways.
A JRPass includes all JREast trains – including metro lines within Tokyo – so you’ll use that instead of Suica on JREast or Shinkansen trains. I believe Suica works for Shinkasen trains, but only for unreserved seats. I recommend reserving seats, whether you have a JRPass or not.
Inside Train Stations
- Restaurants: many train stations have full-service restaurants when your train isn’t leaving immediately;
- Food courts: the food available in Japanese train stations far exceeds typical travel fast-food options, from bento boxes to pastries, chocolates to take-home meals, the choices are astounding;
- Vending Machines: most often on platforms vending drinks and snacks;
- Coin-operated Lockers.
Outside Train Stations
- Convenience stores: Family Mart;
- Noodle Restaurants: there’s a great one outside Shinagawa;
- And much, much more.
Usage
Purchase
You can purchase Suica cards in many places, but the simplest is at a JREast station using a Multifunction Ticket Vending Machines. The card requires ¥500 deposit, for example an initial deposit of ¥2000 provides a Suica card with ¥1500 value.
Suica cards can be refilled using the same vending machines or others (such as a Passmo machine in Tokyo subway stations).
Using
When traveling by train or subway, tap your card at the ticket gate when entering and exiting. Most ticket gates show the remaining value so you know when to top-off the card.
Buses within Tokyo are single-fare, so touch your card as you enter the bus. Other cities may require you to tap-in/tap-out when the fare is dependent on the distance traveled, best to watch what others do when leaving.
Vendors who accept Suica have a device near their cash registers to tap, deducting value from the card.
Vending machines require you tap before you select your item to ensure you have sufficient value to make the purchase.
Redeeming
Before you leave Japan, stop at the JREast Service center and return your Suica card. You’ll receive the initial ¥500 deposit plus any remaining value – minus a transaction fee (currently ¥220) – providing cash to use at the airport before flying out of the country.
Warning
DO NOT get a Welcome Suica card which is not redeemable and you lose whatever value remains on it (unless you return before its expiration date). In my opinion, there’s no advantage to this card.
