In our first visit to Portland, Oregon, my wife and I visited the Portland Japanese Garden in Washington Park and the Lan Su Chinese Garden in the Old Town Chinatown neighborhood. The gardens are substantially different despite both representing East Asian cultures, which is understandable since the cultures themselves are different.
Portland Japanese Garden
After purchasing your ticket, you walk up a hill (somewhat steep) to the main entrance. You immediately notice various Oriental elements as you start up the hill: bamboo growing along the path, bamboo incorporate into the path itself, the groomed path, the (currently dry) stream, small statues, etc. Going through the main entrance drops you in the garden’s courtyard with the ubiquitous gift shop and restrooms. The Nezu Gate to your left leads you to the actual gardens which together comprise the Japanese Garden.
The map shows the grounds as individual, smaller gardens – Tea Garden, Flat Garden, Natural Garden, etc. – and though we hadn’t planned our route, we did see all eight gardens. There are few Japanese-style buildings – the KashinteI Tea House and the Pavillion Gallery (closed at the time of our visit) – the emphasis is nature: grounds, water, plants, trees, wildlife, etc. I particularly enjoyed the Zig Zag Bridge and the Heavenly Waters waterfalls.
Because of the elevation, you may be able to see Mount Hood when the visibility is good; unfortunately, we could not. Regardless, the views are exception and well worth it.
Mentally I compared these gardens to those I’ve visited in Japan, that if you were somehow unaware of your current location, you’d believe you were in Japan. I’m not an expert – e.g., gardening, landscaping, Japan, Japanese gardens – but confirmation came in a quote from a former Japanese ambassador who called it the most beautify and authentic Japanese garden in the world outside of Japan. Bingo!
Well worth whatever time you can spare, anything from a fast walk around the grounds to casual stroll with stops to enjoy the scenery or reflect. Absolutely gorgeous.
Accessibility
A Garden Shuttle Service is available to drive you from the Lower Entrance to the Main Entrance if you’re unable to walk the hill. Note that the bus has limited seating and must be requested, so plan ahead.
The gardens predate the Americans With Disabilities Act and therefore not all parts are wheelchair accessible. Those with walking challenges might find navigating some paths and stairs difficult.
Getting There
- Take either the TriMet Red or Blue line to the Washington Park station and hop on the Washington Park Shuttle. [It’s a non-trivial walk from the station, but you’re welcome to try!]
- Take the TriMet Line 63 to the Int’l Rose Test Garden/Portland Japanese Garden stop.
- Parking is available at the Rose Garden and near the main entrance of the Japanese Garden (near the tennis courts).
Other Pictures
Lan Su Chinese Garden
Lan Su opened in 2000 and is much smaller than the Japanese Garden, contained within a city block. Nevertheless it feels larger than it is, and decently quiet and tranquil despite the surrounding streets and businesses. I was surprised when arriving at what seems like an oasis when considering the surrounding streets.
The garden was designed and built by Chinese artisans from Suzhou, and much of the construction material came from China. Though approximately 90% of the plants are native to China, US import restrictions require the plants are US-grown; most of the larger, older trees were found across the US, purchased, and then transplanted here.
After purchasing your ticket and entering through the gift shop, you immediately see Lake Zither with dominates the garden. Even though the lake is over 50% of the total grounds, the overall design makes it feel smaller. Walking paths lead you around the pong through various pavilions and by beautiful, ornate buildings. There are plenty of spaces to sit, rest, reflect. On the opposite side from the gift shop is the tea house. When getting a drink or snack, I recommend the second floor to get a bird-eye view of the garden.
Besides the building and architecture, there are definitely plants, flowers, and trees to enjoy, though in my memories they don’t stand out as much as the building.
The garden is a destination for the local Chinese community, we saw multi-generation families arrive to enjoy the gardens and hosts events like Nights of the Dragon Boat kicking off AANHPI Heritage Month.
Accessibility
The gardens have no real elevation and the paths and walkways appear wide enough for wheelchairs or scooters. The garden’s small size should allow those with walking challenges to easily traverse the gardens. Visit their site for more details.
Getting There
- Take either the TriMet Red or Blue line to the Old Town/Chinatown station and then walk two blocks west on NW Everett Street.
- Their site shows other ways to get there, including numerous bus routes.
- Street parking is available near Lan Su, though the gardens does not have its own, dedicated parking lock.
Other Pictures
Finally….
Though different, both are beautiful in their own unique way. Can’t really tell you to visit one over the other, probably depends on what you’re interested in and how much time you have. The opportunity to see both the Japanese Garden and the International Rose Test Garden in one stop might save time, but depends where your interests lie.
Image Credits
All pictures © 2023 Scott C Sosna
