Poland has an interesting history – the country itself didn’t exist from 1795 until 1919, during which it was partitioned by the major powers surrounding it – and then was shifted west after World War II by Stalin’s insistence and ethnic Germans evicted over the Oder River and into the newly-defined Germany.
For a while, I have been fascinated by their history and, in particular, the former Prussian (in particular, East Prussia) that are now part of Poland and Russia. The book Forgotten Land: Journeys Among the Ghosts of East Prussia by Max Egremont further stoked my interest.
So I decided to visit Poznań because it was formerly Prussian and only became Polish after World War II. Wrong on both counts. Oh well, too late, travel plans already confirmed and paid for, but a fortunate mistake as I really enjoyed my short visit.
Hotel
I stayed in the Hampton by Hilton which is within walking distance of Old Town. However, the street-level sign very subtle and easy to miss, I couldn’t find it until I parked and that I saw the logo at the top of the building.
The hotel has very limited parking, accessible by an elevator which lowers you (and car) to the basement into an extremely tight and difficult-to-maneuver lot (my rental car was a midsize). You must let the hotel know you need parking before arriving, or else you’ll be street- or public-parking.
Old Town
The risk one takes when traveling off-season is the (reasonable) possibility that places you intend to visit are closed: closed for cleaning, closed for maintenance, or just simply closed until the next tourist season. Lesson learned: Poznań’s entire Old Town is torn-up to completely replace the cobblestone. It’s not end-of-the-world, but is obvious in any picture taken.
More than anything else, it’s the architecture of Old Town that grabs your attention, both within the main square and on the surrounding streets, many gorgeously maintained and restored buildings to admire and drool over….somewhat unsurprisingly, since the German architecture can be seen in any number of German or formerly-German towns. Nevertheless, absolutely gorgeous and stunning, current construction notwithstanding.
Poznań Fara
The Parish Church, more formally Bazylika kolegiacka Matki Bożej Nieustającej Pomocy, św. Marii Magdaleny i św. Stanisława Biskupa (or, in English, Basilica of Our Lady of Perpetual Help, Mary Magdalene and St. Stanislaus), stunning in its baroque architecture. Built between 1651 and 1701, it is a major landmark for us out-of-towners.
Poznań Goats
And something unusual and definitely unique to Poznań, though it took a crowd awaiting and a sign indicating that it occurred at 1200 (noon) and 1500 (3pm) for me to realize it. So I waited.
OK, interesting, repetitive, unique, but definitely not anywhere near the Munich Glockenspiel. Something I’m sure the locals are proud of, something that attracts tourists, but I do not recommend adjusting your schedule specifically see it.
Museums
My extremely limited time in Poznań meant that I didn’t plan on visiting any museums – which, for many museums, could have taken the entire afternoon – but resistance is futile, and when I walking by almost any museum draws me in. In this case, however, I should have kept walking.
Park Cytadela
Literally in English Citadel Park, the former city fortifications on a hill refashioned into a park after World War II. After exhausting my interest in Old Town, it took about 30 minutes to walk the 3km (1.75 miles) to the entrance near the Obelisk.
[The Obelisk is a monument commemorating Soviet soldiers. Surprisingly, the monument wasn’t demolished after communism fell, but at least the Soviet Red Star was removed.]
The park is lovely and definitely more than your everyday city park. Lawns to lay out in the sun (though not in October). Tree-covered walking paths. A landscaped rose garden surrounding a small lake. The Armament Museum (which, unfortunately, wasn’t open). Various monuments and statues. Umberto’s, a coffee cafe and wine bar. Cmentarz Powstańców, a cemetery for those killed both world wars.
The park is definitely appreciated by Poznań citizens, I visited just before sunset on a Saturday evening and there were many people walking pets, strolling with family, exercising, enjoying the features of the park. Overall, well worth the time, and wish I had come here earlier in the day.
Dinner
I was extremely hungry after walking back from the park, so Google Maps to the rescue: what is close to the hotel. Out of the multiple choices in the vicinity, I ended up at Zdolni: more important than the promising menu was the immediately-available window seat. Truthfully, I’m not very discerning when I’m hungry.
The entre was Wiejski Schabowy, or Big Pork Chop. Boneless – what I call a pork tenderloin – and served on a bed of slaw and potatoes with greens on the side. Surprisingly – and fortunately – the breading wasn’t very thick, and the egg yolk mixed in added to the overall flavor. It’s much larger than it looks, but I ate it all nevertheless.
Desert was an apple tart of some sort, also very good.
The restaurant staff was nice and helpful, and most spoke English, definitely visiting again if/when I return to Poznań.
Final Thoughts
The next morning I walked away from Old Town to see a different area of the city, and after breakfast drove to the train station (because I’m a train nut and was hoping for an historic station of some sort, alas no), but needed to be on the road by 9:30 or 10am.
Poznań appears to be a clean, prosperous, growing city and probably a lot more to dig into. It was probably a mistake to not have a complete day to tourist, but my schedule wouldn’t allow it; I definitely will try to get back in the future.
All pictures © 2023 Scott Christopher Sosna
