Another quick stop on my introductory trip to Poland. Gdańsk intrigues me due to its Prussian history – and where World War II began – and its proximity to the Vistula Spit, which I have always wanted to see (and successfully, on this trip).
I arrived later than intended – a misplaced-and-thought-lost passport causint me to return to Toruń – and therefore my trip to the Vistula Spit until the morning of my only full day in Gdańsk. Despite this, I still got a good feel for the city.
Hotel
I stayed at the Hampton by Hilton Gdansk Old Town, centrally-located for the touristy sites in Gdańsk, e.g. the Old Town. The sites to see during an initial visit are within walking distance, and the areas immediately outside the Old Town are not too far to walk.
Similar to my Poznań hotel, the car park is in hotel basement and accessed via a car elevator; fortunately, my larger and easier to navigate. The hotel recommends you reserveparking before your arrival: though fairly empty in October, during prime season I assume it’s full.
If you walk past the elevators, away from reception, back entrance dumps you on Piwna where restaurants and bars can be found, and seemed a little quieter.
Old Town
The Old Town is the center and oldest section of Gdańsk, bordered roughly by: Wały Jagiellońskie to the west; Podwale Staromiejskie to the north; Podwale Przedmiejskie to the south; River Motława to the east. Thoug residential buildings are scattered throughout, especially on the periphery, it’s primarily for tourists AFAIK.
Długi Targ
In English, Long Market, which is a main tourist drag with many gorgeous buildings, statues, restaurants, etc.: things to attract tourists and, hopefully, their money.
The center of the market is the Town Hall and Fontanna Neptuna (Neptunes Fountain). The fountain is probably Gdańsk’s best-known landmark, almost everyone seeks it out and takes pictures (as I did, though not a selfie).
As you walk through the market (really just a long pedestrian mall), both sides have impressive buildings and architecture to admire. I don’t know how much was damaged or destroyed during the war, so either lovingly maintained or restored but gorgeous nevertheless.
Somewhere I read that, after the war when German citizens were forcibly removed from the now-Polish city, an effort was made to de-Germanize the architecture and instead make it become (or seem to be) non-German in origin, such as more Dutch. What I don’t know is if the current buildings reflect that or, after communism fell, were efforts made to restore the original. Research for someone with a true architecture background.
At the far end, just before the river is Brama Zielona, or Green Gate, originally the formal residence of the Polish monarchy.
Wieża Bazyliki Mariackiej w Gdańsk
In English, Basilica of St. Mary of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Gdańsk, a sixteenth century gothic Catholic Church which, according to Wikipedia, can hold 25,000 people (though large, didn’t seem that large). A church has been on this site since the mid-thirteenth century, and became a basilica when elevated by Pope Paul VI in 1965.
Upon entry, you first notice the extreme heights of the vaulting, seemingly higher than other churches, cathedrals, basilicas that I’ve visited. The second thing noticed is the understated decorations and ornamentation compared to others I’ve visited in Europe: perhaps the era in which it was built, perhaps a different architectural style, perhaps what the diocese could affort.
The basilica does hold some unique art, but overall much more subtle than I expected.
Bell Tower
For a separate fee, the bell tower viewing platform gives a phenomenal 360° views of Gdańsk. The platform itself is rather small and likely quite busy during summer months, but not a problem in October.
BEWARE: it’s over 400 steps to get to the viewing platform (78m/256ft high), so be prepared for a strenuous workout! Towards the bottom, the staircases are circular, narrow with small steps, but widens as you go. There are places to stop without blocking others, but there are no chairs, benches, or anywhere else to sit.
You do get to see the building’s interior, including the large bells that I imagine are very loud. There are also approved areas where you can add your own graffiti and signatures.
Mariacka Street
Supposedly, the most beautiful street in Gdańsk (from multiple sources), with amber and antique stores. Meh. More the epitome of a tourist trap, stores selling nick-nacks that you give to small children who aren’t judgemental. Other stores that seemed questionable. Bars. Really unimpressed and, fortunately, very short.
Roman Keller
Romanesque Cellar in English, built on top of the remains of a Dominican friary, the current building contains individual stores each selling their own wares: food mainly on the first floor (seafood, beef, veggies), clothes and miscellaneous consumer goods on the second floor. The remains can be seen on the ground floor, and believe there is an museum but I didn’t visit. Bought some much-needed t-shirts here.
Old Town At Night
Many buildings at night, and especially the most important ones, are wonderfully lit that provides atmosphere … and some great pictures!. Much different without the daytime tourist traffic – which, in October, was definitely more manageable than what I expect during high season. I felt fairly safe, but as always make sure you’re aware of the surroundings.
Warning: I was approached every fifty yards by individuals with flyers for local strip clubs;didn’t matter if I ignored them or gruffly said no, very insistent.
Museums
As most of you know, I love museums, and a number seemed very promising. Unfortunately, my day in Gdańsk was a Monday and all were closed. Some that I hoped were open (but weren’t):
- Muzeum II Wojny Światowej: Museum of the Second World War in English. WWII started in Gdańsk (Danzig) and this museum is, by its own admission, one of the largest historical museums in the world (5000m²/54,000ft²).
- Muzeum Poczty Polskiej w Gdańsku. Polish Post Office Museum in English. More than just a post office, this building also housed the Polish intelligence services during Communism (though it doesn’t appear that the museum is about that, though difficult to tell). I’ve enjoyed other postal museums, and this comes highly recommended.
- Museum 1989: Museum about the communist-era secret service, the Służba Bezpieczeństwa (referred to as SB). Personally I don’t know much about the Polish secret service, but similar museums I’ve been to were very interesting.
- Muzeum Starych Zabawek: Old Toy Gallery in English. A collection of Polish toys from 1920 (restoration of Poland as a country) and 1989 (fall of communism).
Alas, I’ll need to plan another trip to Gdańsk just for museums, but this trip didn’t have the flexibility required.
Food
I dined at Mono Kitchen just after arriving in Gdansk and ordered seemingly un-Polish dishes, tomato basil soup and chicken caesar salad, both of which were delicious.
Not to totally disappoint, my lunch seemed truly Polish, some sort of meat filling wrapped in a potato pastry. While tasty, it was very heavy and don’t know it’s name, as my Polish is non-existent and I just pointed at what I wanted. Nor do I remember the name of the place. Sorry.
The second night found me at the Montonia Food Hall, which is a twenty-minute walk from Old Town, located in a residential area. As I expected, the food hall has multiple vendors to chose from, and I decided to order Vietnamese pho from Madame’s Pho. This pho had a lighter brother with fatter noodles than the pho I’ve enjoyed at home, and was delicious. Desert was a delightful pumpkin cheesecake from Deseo – I didn’t intend to eat it all but couldn’t resist.
Final Thoughts
I visited Prague in 1995, early in the post-communist era as they were just starting to open up for tourists.. While the areas around St. Wenceslas Square and Charles Bridge had been renovated and cleaned-up, just beyond you saw the decayed/desiccated remains of their communist era: at the end of St. Wenceslas Square is the Národní Muzeum, and beyond that were places they obviously didn’t expect (want?) tourists to see, such as the main railroad station that was obviously falling apart.
It feels like Gdańsk went through the same post-communism evolution, however with areas outside Old Town much farther along than 1995 Prague. The Old Town is definitely geared for tourists and not for local residents (though I did see some). That said, there was plenty I didn’t see – e.g., museums and the shipyard – and definitely hope to come again when I have more time.
All photos © 2023 Scott C Sosna
