My wife’s and my birthdays are a few days apart and often we leave Minneapolis/St. Paul to celebrate, New York City being a common destination. We celebrated my wife’s birthday this year by enjoying dinner at Gabriel Kreuther’s restaurant
Gabriel Kreuther has been awarded two Michelin stars for his interpretation of Alsatian food. The menu changes regularly (Fridays?), so what we ate last week is not available this week.
This is our second visit, our first introduced us to fine dining: we had never eaten at a Michelan-starred restaurant nor understood what that implied. I made our reservation based on positive online reviews, but didn’t realize it was starred. However, we realized quickly that this was very different, especially once the food started arrived: our socks were completely knocked off.
With those memories, we both wanted to return, and were not disappointed.
Location
Gabriel Kreuter is located on 42nd Street across from Bryant Park in a modern-looking building. Inside has two seating areas, the Dining Room and the Lounge. The dining room menu is a Chef’s Tasting Menu and 3- or 4-course Prix Fixe; a la carte is available in the Lounge.
[You can also make a reservation for the Chef’s Table, but don’t know what that means.]
Our June 2021 visit reservation was on the patio facing Bryant Park, though this may have only been pandemic-related: New York had just listed its COVID restrictions, this before we knew of the Delta variation.
The Meal
We went for the four-course meal and chose different items (other than the dessert). The descriptions on the menu are succinct compared to the those provided by the staff when delivering the dish to your table: even more impressive is they do this from memory, without a cheatsheet!
First Course
Citrus Cured Tuna Loin: cucumber ponzu • nori taco • blood orange snow
The tuna is very tender and very tasty when swirled in the cucumber sauce. I don’t remember what was used for the taco shell, but the lime cut to hold the taco is very cute.
Mid-course
Ricotta & Spigarello Gnocchi: pancetta • shallot crumble • saba
The pancetta is inside of the crunchy gnocchi. Other than that, don’t remember much, it was tasty but didn’t make the impact of the other dishes. Should have taken notes ….
Entree
Hay Smoked-Two Week Aged Duck Breast: blistered cranberries • parsnip cream • sweet potato “banana bread”
The duck breast was incredibly tender and juicy, unlike other duck that I’ve eaten, and the cranberry sauce drizzled really pops the flavor. My wife picked the Spice Roasted Atlantic Black Bass but thought the duck was much better (and we ended up swapping plates halfway through). Absolutely delicious.
Dessert
Chocolate Choux Frappé: chocolate crémeux • bayleaf foam • chocolate sorbet
A hard chocolate exterior with sorbet inside, definitely high quality chocolate: the sorbet was very soft and I actually thought it was a mousse. My palette is not sophisticated enough to taste how the foam influenced the chocolate taste, but definitely a different look surrounding the base.
Extras
You’d be correct in thinking the meal itself seemed small and might not be enough, and you’d be correct except for the unannounced extras: egg-shaped sour-dough bread with a cucumber sauce; cheese encrusted oysters with (I believe) super greens drizzled on; sample hand-crafted chocolates left with the bill; an initial nibble delivered on a cute upraised hand; a birthday dessert with a creamy pink center for my wife.
Feeling completely stuffed when leaving the restaurant, we decided it prudent to walk the 10 blocks back to the hotel. Fortunately, it was a pleasant evening and the walk was enjoyable.
Service
Impeccable service from the moment we arrived: many more waitstaff than your neighborhood restaurant, always paying attention to your needs. Answering questions about whatever you are eating. Refilling water glasses before it was empty. Taking away dishes quickly and efficiently. Clearing the crumbs from the table between courses. Walking you to restrooms (because it wasn’t all that obvious). Paying attention and making sure you have a great experience. Very impressive.
Wrap-up
New York City has no lack of wonderful restaurants, but Gabriel Kreuter is on our list for a future visit. Definitely an expensive indulgence and not a regular occurrence – even if were local – the food and overall experience is one to enjoy.
