Two former employers of mine had (have) off-shore offices in Bangalore/Bengaluru, India, and I’ve made the trip there many times. Despite the travel time involved, I find it a decently easy trip as, fortunately, I usually don’t have jet-lag despite traveling half-way around the world.
On what has been my final trip to India, in September 2018 I flew first to New Delhi with two personal agenda items: visit a friend’s mother (whom I’ve met multiple times in Minnesota) and to see the Taj Mahal, one of the new Seven Wonders of the World. Though scheduling conflicts meant I didn’t see my friend’s mother, I did get to Agra to see the Taj (as the locals call it).
I’m not actually blogging about actually seeing the Taj Mahal – a simple web search finds thousands of similar posts and pictures – but instead am writing about the process of actually visiting the Taj Mahal, from hotel to Agra and back. Unexpectedly, that, was an unexpected and noteworthy experience.
Getting There
Though approximately one-third the size of the United States, India is still vast with long distances between major population centers. More noticeably is that the infrastructure, and more importantly the streets and roadways, are nowhere near level of western countries: even though I arrived after midnight, the twelve miles between the airport and my hotel took almost an hour. My previous travels to Bangalore gave me the experience to know that the trip to/from Agra would be an all-day affair, however well-planned the day was. I also have a co-worker friend whom had made the trip and could give me advice.
A Bangalore friend arranged a driver whom would pick me up at the hotel and drive me to Agra, wait for me to complete my visiy, and then drive me back to the hotel. The distance is a seemingly-reasonable 120 miles/200 km, approximately four hours in each direction, though almost double autobahn time!
After reaching the outskirts of Dehli, the driver entered a four-lane, divided highway and started the long drive to Agra. Though the road quality was decent and the traffic almost non-existent, the driver did not exceed the speed limit. Many signs encouraging people to wear seatbelts. Typical rural scenes of farms, trees, lakes, nothing to write home about.
Just outside of Agra, we exited the highway and got on some very rough local streets that, I assumed, would get us to Tag.
Then It Got Weird….
My driver pulled into an empty parking lot and stopped. The parking lot was empty, the Taj is nowhere in sight, there’s no obvious tourists milling about. This doesn’t feel right.
Why have we stopped?
We’re meeting your guide.
I didn’t ask for a guide. I plan to tour the grounds by myself.
There is no charge for the guide. The guide will make sure you get into the Taj quickly and not have to wait in the long line.
No, I am not using a guide, I am going in by myself.
The driver looked confused and concerned, but multiple red flags abound:
- My friend told me that the Taj jas two entrance lines: a shorter line for tourists and a longer line for Indians. Of course, tourists pay more (1100₹ vs 50₹), but typical.
- Nothing is every free in India, there’s always an angle or gotcha. Someone offering a free service? Not likely.
- Day-to-day corruption is commonplace in India, and tourists, in particular, are often caught unaware, asked for tips and handouts and whatever for … just being tourists. Either be aware of your surroundings or be taken advantage of.
I held my ground when the guide finally arrived, repeating the same conversation I had with the driver. The guide finally left the vehicle once convinced that I was not going to relent, despite his many arguments and protestations, and the driver reluctantly continued on to The Taj.
And It Didn’t Stop
We arrived at the Taj Mahal Visitor Centre, from where after parking, you walk approximately 500m to the entrance gate to the grounds. As I got out of the car, multiple “guides” quickly approached me, almost accosting me, offering themselves as my guide. And the melee continued as I walked towards the entrance. Another gaggle just outside the entrance gate. And then just inside the entrance gate. A bazaar of potential guides, every one spouting their sales pitch. There’s definitely something going on, some reason for everyone to offer their wares, I just don’t know – or care – what it is.
I became so frustrated that I threatened to leave without seeing anything, and that got their attention, and they went off to find another potential victim. It was obvious how important tourism is to the local economy and they they can’t scare people off. I ended up repeating the threat to each subsequent group, and once I got through the gate and onto the grounds I was free of their incessant clammoring.
One Final Example
The driver stopped at a roadside gas station/cafe about one hour into our drive back to New Dehli, claiming to need a quick rest despite having three hours to do nothing while I did my thing. He spent the time in animated talk with the store owner, watching me closely, apparently expecting me to buy something. Another scam.
Should You Go?
Unequivocally, yes, the grounds themselves are gorgeous and the Taj itself is incredibly beautiful, both inside and out. It’s was also interesting to see the environmental and other damage that needs to repairs: though the Taj itself was recently renovated, the nearby mosque hadn’t been, for example missing boards or misaligned marble or whatever. Yes, you’ve seen the pictures, but seeing it up close and personal is something completely different.
That said, prepare accordingly. Hire a guide before you arrive if you desire one, preferably via a personal recommendation of someone accredited and knows the history and importance of the site. Most importantly, stand your ground and push back as necessary, do what you want, and avoid getting scammed.
