Synopsis
Bernina Express Roundtrip: It’s a classic picture: a bright red train with large, panoramic windows traveling through the mountains. That’s the Bernina Express, very likely you’ve seen it before – Hallmark romo-fluffs have used it – and travels through 55 tunnels and over 196 bridges from Chur to Tirano, Italy. Everyone raves about it, dreams about it, and we’re going to finally do it.
We’re doing a one-day roundtrip to avoid having to deal with luggage. Each leg is between 4′ and 4’30” with approximately 2 hour layover in Tirano. Warning to friends and family: expect a large number of texted pictures!
Commentary
Starting Off
Our outbound Bernina Express is scheduled for an 8:17 am departure. Rhätianbahn, operators of both the Bernina and Glacier Express trains, have signs to you to the correct carriage, and it’s an on-time as the train pulls out of Chur. Our train headed west out of Chur and quickly left the city behind.
Seats with a View
The reserved carriages are Panoramic Express carriages with oversized pictures windows which extend to the top, curving slightly before connecting to the roof. We selfishly reserved both window seats facing each other for better pictures.
Or so we thought: interior reflections – lights, people clothing, seats – appeared in pictures, especially when the phone wasn’t pressed flat against the window. My wife resorted to holding her dark coat against her to avoid images of her black stripped white shirt. The cloudy, gray day then became rainy, leaving drops on the previously spotless windows. And finally, as if the previous challenges weren’t enough, the more interesting scenery appeared on the other side. Oh well.
And to add to the picture-taking challenges, the more interesting scenery constantly appeared on the other side. Oh well.
Watching Your Train
At certain points, you can see the front or the back of the train as it rounds a corner or as it loops back on itself to handle extreme elevation, the most famous loops around Wassen. At no point is the Bernina a cog railway. Between the brief moments when you see the train you’re traveling in plus the already described difficulties of taking pictures through the windows makes it photography difficult. The professional brochure shots found online are so superior.
Alp Grüm
Alp Grüm is a station at an altitude of 2,091 m/6086ft, providing views of the Palü glacier and the Val Poschiavo. The train stops for almost 10 minutes to allow everyone to get off and scramble for their pictures.
Lots of Incredible Views
In no particular order because I didn’t upload them in any particular order ….
Tirano
The Bernina terminates in Tirano, Italy and provided three options for our next move: spend the night in Tirano; take a bus to Lugano to get back to Switzerland; return to Chur via the Bernina. A return to Chur logistically worked best and didn’t require any reposition, plus our bags can stay safe in the hotel.
Our two hour layover provided time for sustenance – note to self: ignore restaurants adjacent to train stations purporting to serve authentic local cuisine – followed by a brief walk around Tirano. No time or desire to really explore.
Return to Chur
While the trip is technically the same, there were a few differences:
- Announcements were in Italian first, rather than German first;
- a window across from the toilets did open, so I took out my Nikon DSL and took pictures that hopefully provide some better views/angles/etc. than possible at my seat;
- Riding the rails for nine hours makes for a really long day.
Final Thoughts
The weather for both trains was mostly gray and rainy with only occasional sun, but we still consider it a success. Very clean and comfortable trains. Very nice staff. Food options are lacking, but not a major inconvenience as we ate before both trips.
I might reconsider an earlier version of the itinerary which would have us fly into Italy, take the Bernina from Turino to Chur, and after a night in Chur ride the Glacier Express. The real issue is that Turino appears to be off the beaten path and just getting there is challenging. Local trains are faster, even with the necessary transfers, but more windows open. Our Bernina roundtrip worked fine, despite its limitations and increased cost, and therefore would carefully revisit options if the need arises.
Image Credits
- map courtesy of travel switzerland
- 1893 Wasen Tunnel Maps are credited by Karl Baedeker, Wagner & Debes, Orell Füssli and others, no longer under copyright protection.
- photos © 2025 Scott C Sosna, all rights reserved
