Great Swiss Railway Tour: Day 3

Synopsis

Repositioning Train: Our Bernina Express trip originates in Chur, so we’ll take the train from Zurich to Chur and spend two nights in the Mercure Chur City West. After arriving early afternoon, we’ll explore Chur, the oldest city in Switzerland. A quick search says Old Town Chur is very walkable with plenty of gorgeous architecture and views of the mountains. Apparently, the city isn’t well-known and therefore does not see a lot of tourists. Should be interesting!

Commentary

Before heading to the train station, my wife insisted on seeing the city’s swans near Bürkliplatz, so we walked in a light drizzle with the hope that they hanging out somewhere else. Happily, at least two dozen were swimming about, feeding in the lake, begging for food from tourists. She took pictures and we moved on, as the cold and wet made continued walking about less than fun. We agreed that heading back to the hotel room made the most sense.

Our Intercity train trip to Chur was quick, efficient, uneventful, more Swiss landscapes, low clouds once again obscuring the mountains. However, repositioning and not scenery was the day’s goal, and to that end we were successful. Arrived, taxied to the hotel, checked in, and dumped our bags. Repositioning complete.

Chur Old City

Chur is (supposedly) known for the Altstadt, so we walked 25-30 minute from our hotel to visit. The Altstadt has the prerequisite old buildings, cobblestone streets, parks and squares, statues, well preserved and likely original (an advantage of permanent neutrality). With no prepared itinerary, we meandered around, admired the architecture, took pictures. Stopped at a cafe for coffee (wife), tea (me) and some snacks to ward off hunger. Unfortunately a little underwhelmed: perhaps lack of planning and research meant I didn’t have the background context, perhaps we just missed the cool stuff. Saw nothing unforgettable or awe-inspiring or necessarily that unique that made me gasp with delight or surprise. Chur reminded me of other European town centers I’ve visited but with no explanation why I would stop here.

Don’t get me wrong, Chur is cute with old buildings, likely with more to see and do than what our time allowed. If you know Chur intimatel, you could argue we didn’t see the real Chur. That said, the apparent lack of foot traffic, open restaurants, and tourist attractions on a weekday afternoon seems to contradict Chur’s desire, as the oldest city in Switzerland, in building interest of and driving tourism to the city. Either something doesn’t add up or I’m just ignorant. Today I don’t know its strengths, and perhaps those strengths are what is expected to get outsiders interested. If so, the city’s marketing department needs some help.

And that was our (partial) day of exploration in Chur, Switzerland.

Image Credits

  • map copied from Google Maps
  • photos © 2025 Scott C Sosna, all rights reserved